For example, I learned only about 10 years ago that people in Old Harbour serve bun with fried fish at Easter. And it was just last year that I found out that Kingstonians eat dried coconut with roast corn! In Clarendon where I grew up, we ate fish and bammy or bread, and as for dried coconut, that went with some wet sugar or brown sugar. And roast corn was had entirely on its own. Go figure.
So, starting this week, Outlook will take you on a cultural journey around the island and share with you how the other half lives. We begin with something familiar.
Uptown vs downtown funerals
Funerals are a celebration of life and an opportunity for loved ones of the deceased to pay their last respects to that person and, of course, remember them fondly. But like most events in any society, the traditions which accompany such an occasion vary from one part of society to the next.
Nine-night culture
Uptown: A simple indoor wake where family and friends bring food to the house of the family of the deceased. The guests usually just sit/stand around and talk and offer further condolences and support to the family.
Downtown: This tradition takes some of the habits from the traditional Jamaican nine-night observance. Usually held under a tent or outdoors, the neighbours attend and sing traditional mourning songs in slow, drawn-out method, with someone tracking the lines of each song, occasionally refreshing themselves with white rum, fried fritters, chicken, bread and hot chocolate. Others stand around, gather in different rooms of the house, telling stories, while some play domino.
In recent years, this has evolved where on the outskirts of this tent, a sound system or band plays. Traditional food like curried goat and white rice and mannish water are also provided for visitors usually at the expense of the mourning family.
Mourning methods
Uptown: Mourning is more of a private action. Tears might flow during the service, but they are often disguised behind sunglasses. This, however, is almost never an obvious action, nor audible to the group.
Downtown: Open weeping, where most present can hear and almost experience the mourners' anguish, is often apparent. This is usually expressed by women.
Funeral attire
Uptown: Conservative outfits, usually in traditional funeral colours black, white and purple, will be seen. The dress is usually reflective of what would be worn to a sombre church service.
Downtown: While the outfits also usually reflect the traditional funeral colours, the styles usually mirror what would be worn to a party or dance. There is no reservation about showing skin or wearing attention-grabbing outfits.
Length of service
Uptown: The service is usually highly restricted in terms of time with a brief message from the pastor and a few tributes.
Downtown: There is often more room for tributes, scheduled ones and often spontaneous tributes are encouraged. The pastor is also given room with his message, making the event a long one.