Jamaica Gleaner News - Knowing your stemware - Sunday

Chester Francis-Jackson, Contributor

For the uninitiated, an invitation to a formal dinner party is usually greeted with great trepidation. Instead of welcoming the invitation and looking forward to actually going out and enjoying the society of others, most people regard these invitations as something akin to the inquisitions of old, and consequently, spend way too much time fearing and living in utter dread of the occasion, rather than looking forward to it.

Dinner parties are really quite charming occasions and the grander they are the better; as the grander the occasion, the more there is to learn. Learning here runs the gamut of the entire spectrum of the social existence, whether it be the fine art of dining, the more revered art of conversation, the art of listening, and last but not least, the opportunity to not just brush up on one's own social skills, but also to learn from fellow guests.

Truth be told, when it comes to manners at the dinner table, for the person(s) not schooled in the finer points of the social graces, your first experience in a formal dinner need not be a disaster, unless of course, that is your desired outcome. The best way to proceed is never to initiate the dining experience, but wait for a more seasoned socialite to do so, and then you simply follow this person's lead!

Fear

Now, for most people, the sense of dread that they allow to envelop them is based solely on fear! Fear can place a damper on those so caught up and can actually spoil a good time. Their fear of being thought of by others of not knowing, the 'proper thing' can and from time to time, does lead to some very strange behaviour at the dining table.

Usually, this fear is predicated by their acknowledged ignorance of the protocol at a formal dinner.

This fear has as its root, the basic understanding of just how to handle the silverware at dinner and/or the stemware. It is the fear of doing the wrong thing which causes people to freeze at the dinner table, making all kinds of excuse as to why they are not enjoying the excellent fare on offer, or worse yet, causes many not to attend at all.

When it comes to a formal dinner setting, the array of stemware accompanying the silver and other accoutrements adorning the dining table can be a formidable if not daunting line-up. In our final instalment in this commentary, we will look at silverware. This week, however, our penultimate piece will look at stemware (glasses).

Now, 'back in the days', navigating stemware was probably not as daunting, as back then stemware was easily identifiable like the water goblet was different in style and size from the wine glass; the brandy snifter was different from the champagne glass and the glass for dessert wine or a port vessel. However, with a global growth in the wine and liquor industry, there has been a commensurate growth in the business of stemware and thus laying the groundwork for potential confusion.

Classification

Even as we write of stemware, there are wine glasses now being marketed that lacks the stem which originally gave this line of wares its classification. With this in mind, however, it is important to know that while the appearance of stemware has changed over the years to reflect contemporary trends and clever marketing strategies, the basic protocol governing their usage and placement has not!

The history of stemware is as old as the art of wine-drinking itself, if not older. For the purposes of this article, we have condensed samples as well as their recommended usage for you.

Water goblet, fill almost to top.

Red wine goblet 1/2 full.

Red wine, balloon-shaped glass, served a third to 1/2 full.

White wine glass, served 1/2 full.

White Rhine wine goblet 4-6 oz, 3/4-inch deep.

Brandy snifter, served a 1/4 or a finger full.

Flute champagne glass, served 3/4 full.

Saucer-shaped champagne glass (now almost extinct), served full.

Martini or cocktail glass 4-6 oz, served almost to top.

Sherry, port, Madeira wine glass, served ³/⁴ full.

Cordial or liqueur glasses, served ¹/² to ³/⁴ full.

In this respect, the protocol at a formal dinner is that all glasses are arranged to the right of the dinner plate, (above the knives and spoons) and are arranged in reverse order of service. In case of multiple courses, with each dish served with its own wine, experts recommend that no more than five glasses should be accommodated, for the ease and comfort of guests. And the first glass to be used is farthest right, with each new course, by the process of elimination, you work your way in. But it is important to remember that with the introduction of each new course, new stemware is required. If the occasion is a champagne dinner then only one glass will be required for the evening, and that is your champagne flute. (Saucers have long since disappeared).

Holding your stemware

Much has been written and said about the protocol of holding one's wine glass. For the most part, not much has changed when it comes to the accepted protocol. Generally, the accepted way of correctly holding a wine glass is to hold it by the stem, near the bowl. The common practice of grasping the bowl, for red or white, is incorrect and should be avoided, especially for whites as by holding the bowl, your body temperature serves to actually heat the chilled wine. With reds, however, holding the bottom part of the bowl, where it intersects with the stem, is considered acceptable.

When setting stemware at the table, only do so after they have been polished, and avoid the rims or bowls of stemware by using the stem.

Arrange symmetrically as it presents a more pleasant view for guests and the extra effort sets the host apart from the ordinary Joe.

If cocktails preceded dinner, avoid the tendency to take your old drink in with you from cocktails to the dinner table as this is a definite no-no.

Do not use stemware as a receptacle for anything, but drinking! It is not cool to displace an annoying crumb or anything else in stemware at the dining table or otherwise.

Now in order of precedence your use of stemware follows the order of service. In this respect, the following observations are key pointers to remember:

If soup is your first course on the menu, usually the server carries a carafe with a sherry, and this is usually poured directly into the soup. So no stem-ware here.

Next would be a white wine to accompany a salad or fish course. So this could be your first use of stemware save and except the water goblet, which is usually the biggest glass at the dining table and is usually placed above the dinner knife.

The main course more often than not is usually a meat dish and consequently accompanied by a red wine. Here, the red wine glass is placed to the left of the white wine glass. If the main course is white meat, say poultry, then a different white wine would be served and that glass would be placed where the red would have been had red meat been the main course. Sometimes a salad follows the main course. If this is the case, another glass is provided here too.

Dessert is usually served with champagne and served in a flute, which would be the innermost of your stemware.

The brandy snifter or sherry glass, is never usually placed at the dining table, but is served upon request or offered by the host, when the sherry, brandy or port is brought out after dinner.

Now, those afraid of accepting that dinner invitation, need to just brush up and go out and enjoy the fare and company. And remember, it is only the socially inept who would revel in the social mistake of another.

One such story that has done the international rounds for decades tells the story of the head of state in attendance at a state banquet at Buckingham Palace, who proceeded to lift the finger bowl to her head and drink heartily from it. Prince Phillip, recognising her faux pas and not wanting to cause her any embarrassment, promptly picked up his finger bowl and did likewise.

Moral

The moral of the story is twofold. The first being that true hosts never seek to embarrass or remonstrate with their guests, on any point of protocol or manners, however trying, but rather seek to gloss over any perceived deficiencies. It does behove the guest however, to be au fait with his or her table manners and awareness in order to avoid becoming the butt of ridicule as will be the case when stories of one's faux pas are leaked, especially when committed by the high and mighty. They do make for good cocktail chit-chat!