Title: The Rise and Fall of Falmouth Jamaica
Author: Carey Robinson
Reviewer: Paul H. Williams
Publisher: LMH Publishers
Present-day Falmouth is a dowdy relic, as are many parish capitals in Jamaica. Yet, people from all over the north coast flock to its very popular Wednesday 'Bend-down Market'. After Wednesday evening, despite its historical sites, it is a very drab place, desperately in need of resuscitation.
However, decades ago, it was a lively place, a scene of great revelry and merriment. Trelawny had the most slaves in the country and sugar was king. The port of Falmouth was the busiest on the land, and the town flourished, and flourished, until 'King Sugar' was dethroned by the abolition of slavery. Even then, it still prospered. But, a combination of factors eventually brought it down from its pedestals.
This riches-to-rags history is the essence of the book, The Rise and Fall of Falmouth Jamaica, written by well-known Jamaican historian Carey Robinson. It is about the rise to prominence of that north-western Jamaican town and its descent into economic and social decadence. It might have well remained a part of St James, which is now the hub of tourism in Jamaica.
The parish of St James, established in 1655, was considered by many citizens to be too big. In 1771, it was divided into two, with the new parish named Trelawny, after the then governor, William Trelawny. Martha Brae became the chief town, but lost that status to Falmouth around 1790.
Sugar-producing parish
Trelawny became a major sugar-producing parish, and the port of Falmouth was rivalled only by Kingston in terms of exporting activities. Even with the end of slavery in 1838, Falmouth was holding its own. Robinson writes, "In the 1850s, when the Jamaican sugar industry was in serious decline, the industry remained vibrant in Trelawny, which was the chief sugar-producing parish at the time.
"Falmouth was full of life and activities of all sorts. The waterfront was alive with industrious workers. Falmouth took second place to none in terms of its sporting activities, the often exciting and imaginative cultural events which centred on its impressive court house; and the many families of merchants, professional and country gentry which graced the town on social occasions."
The lavish court house, which was opened in 1817, was destroyed by fire in 1926. It was refurbished and reopened in 1930, "but in spite of all the restoration efforts, the aura of majesty and magic was never quite recaptured. The link with roots and heritage, the historical and symbolic significance had lost their strength ... in a way, the burning of the court house symbolised the decay of Falmouth."
Humorous, historical
There is much more to the book than the rise and fall of Falmouth. It is replete with historical stories (some very humorous) and events that went beyond Falmouth. It puts Falmouth in the context of major world and local events, giving readers a peep into what people were like many years ago, how they behaved, their eccentricities and idiosyncrasies, prejudices and humanity.
Among the more interesting stories are the black blood of Bleby, a fiery editor, Governor Eyre's visit to Falmouth, the big scandal of 1867, Dr Vine and other characters, the courageous Knibb sisters, the silver cup of Daniel O'Gilvie, the poor house and Matron Marion, and the ghost of Phillip Fitz-Ritson
In the epilogue, Robinson says, "Falmouth never recovered its former glory as a thriving commercial centre." But Falmouth shall rise again, that is, if plans by the Government to develop the port materialise.
According the Financial Gleaner of November 14, "The Port Authority of Jamaica will spend ... US$122 million to develop the port infrastructure, while its partner on the project, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines Limited, will invest US$102 million to build ... structures ... including retail shops, restaurants and entertainment facilities." Work, which is under way, is projected to be completed before May 2010 "to accommodate the world largest cruise ship, Royal Caribbean's Oasis of the Sea".
So Robinson has work to do, a new book is in order. It could be called 'Falmouth Rises Again'. Hopefully, it will be just as educational and informative as The Rise and Fall of Falmouth Jamaica, a repository of interesting historical anecdotes and facts that ought to be among the collection of anyone who claims to be a scholar of Caribbean history.
And talking about capitals, Robinson seems to be in a love affair with them. Capital letters were generously distributed throughout the book; they were applied in places where Miss Green taught me in basic school not to put them. Still a wonderful book, it is.