Browne

OK, you've had your salsa practice and you can now say 'uno mas' like a native - real handy for each time you want to order another cerverza. But you're still not quite ready to fork out US$400 plus for the short hop to Havana - not when 'Kingston 21' beckons yet again with its North American shopping splendour. If only you could get a feel for Havana before leaving.

No prob. Jump in your car and get to downtown Kingston post-haste. Find a parking space, breathe deeply and step out of the vehicle. Yes! You can do it! Now stroll along the streets and lanes of the old part of the capital observing the urban decay and the hidden architectural gems here and there. And do it without thinking, even for a second, that you are surely about to meet your doom. Welcome to Havana.

Just imagine

As you walk down the little lanes, imagine many more balconies than you do in downtown Kingston. Water drips from the laundry overhead. Relax while observing that among the buildings with their peeling paint and cracked columns is a beautifully restored edifice. There beside it is a bombed-out shell that defies the laws of gravity. But the space is alive, converted to a busy café, art gallery or craft market. Across the road may be a museum. Beside it a former mansion is now a beautiful little hotel, its tranquil courtyard still home to its ancient well.

Now wander down to the harbour and imagine Havana's famous Malecon. Boys jump in the water as they do in Havana - but on the Malecon there is the added thrill of perhaps mistiming the waves and landing directly on the honeycomb. A sort of mini-Acapulco, or Rick's Café. Across the road are many large and luxurious hotels. Police abound (with minimal weaponry - some just with batons for crying out loud), but even without them you feel no fear. Imagine that everywhere people are relaxing on the wall, taking in the sea breeze, drinking beer, joking, chatting, fishing, cuddling - canoodling even. But be prepared for open-minded daydreaming - not all those loving couples are necessarily heterosexually inclined.

Faded glory

Now saunter to King Street. Imagine the shopping there is a shadow of its current state - but you can clearly see its faded glory. Imagine no untidy vending but neat bookstalls and snack carts. On the streets, imagine fewer cars and more rickshaws, fewer over-packed minibuses and more horse and buggies. Instead of seeing people playing dominoes, imagine you see couples strategising over a chessboard - four or five onlookers giving occasional advice.

Imagine you don't understand a word anyone is saying - (perhaps not that difficult if you come from upper St Andrew). Among the streams of people, imagine spotting tourists from all over the world. Imagine their facial expressions and body language don't reveal them to be frightened out of their wits.

Imagine stopping at a little street-side café for lunch. For something different, imagine ordering a beer that was made in the micro-brewery on site. Yes - it's pretty easy if you use your imagination to believe downtown Kingston and Havana Vieja are very similar indeed - the architecture, the weather, the people.

But this is not the whole picture. Open your eyes further and you will see much more - there are the mansions of Norbrook, there's Barcelona and its Prado, there's New York's Wall Street, there's Washington and its Capitol, there's London's museums and green parks, there's Rome and its piazzas, there's Chinatown, there's New Orleans and there's much more besides. And somehow everything merges together to create one unique city, perhaps even a great world city, the likes of which you've never seen.

Ricky Browne is freelance writer. Feedback may be sent to columns@gleanerjm.com.